Njeguši and the Lovćen Road: Pršut, Cheese and a Mountain Mausoleum.

The old road out of Kotor is one of Europe's great short drives: twenty-five numbered hairpins stacked up the mountainside, each one opening a wider view over the bay until the whole fjord lies spread out silver below you. Take it slowly, stop often, and let faster locals pass.

Njeguši: pršut and mountain cheese

Near the top sits Njeguši, an unassuming stone village with an outsized reputation. This is the ancestral home of the Petrović dynasty that ruled Montenegro, and the birthplace of its two national foods — pršut, the air-dried smoked ham cured in these mountain drafts, and a sharp local cheese. Half the village serves both; stop and eat.

Lovćen and the Njegoš Mausoleum

From there, Lovćen National Park crowns the range. A road (and 461 steps) leads to the mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš — poet, philosopher and prince-bishop — perched on the peak of Jezerski vrh. On a clear day the terrace behind the tomb takes in a staggering sweep of the country, from the coast to the far northern mountains.