The far south feels like a different country — hotter, wider and more relaxed than the bays up north, with a distinct Albanian-Montenegrin character. Ulcinj's old town rises on a rocky headland above the Adriatic, a warren of stone lanes and ramparts with a long, salty history of sailors and, once, pirates. Minarets and church towers share the same skyline.
Velika Plaža and the southern sands
Below the town, little Mala Plaža fills fast in summer; the real prize is Velika Plaža, 'Long Beach' — twelve kilometres of open sand running toward the Albanian border, shallow and warm, and one of the Adriatic's best kitesurfing spots when the afternoon wind gets up.
Ada Bojana and the river’s edge
At the very end lies Ada Bojana, a triangular island cradled between the river and the sea, long a byword for laid-back, clothing-optional beach life and lined with wooden fish restaurants built out over the water. Come for the sunset and a plate of fresh river fish; there is no better place to end a trip down the coast.